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PAGAN (BAGAN)  Bagan, the historical capital, known as the city of four million
Pagodas, is the richest archaeological site in Asia. The enchanting
city is situated on the eastern bank of Ayeyawaddy River about 193
km south of Mandalay, the Last Capital of Myanmar monarchy.The ruin
of the city of Bagan covers an area of 42 sq-km containing over 2000
Pagodas and religious edifices. The majority of well preserved
temples and pagodas offer a rich architectural heritage from the
11th Centaury to 13th Centaury era.Zone Charge - US 10 $ Museum Fee - US 4 $ HOW TO GET THERE? One can reach there by all means of transportation.By plane, an hour 20 minutes by flight from Yangon Bagan/Nyaung-oo. There are daily flight schedule to be inquired at Government and Private travel agencies.By train, several trains so-called express make round-trip between Yangon and Mandalay but Bagan is to be gone by car from junction of Thazi to Kyaukpadaung-Nyaungoo.Everyday, the buses leave from Yangon to Mandalay, Taungyi, and Bagan, otherwise the renting of a car is more pleasant. There is always Ayeyawaddy River cruise between Mandalay and Bagan (express boat or ordinary). For the cruise of luxury between two cities, the Private Cruise (Road to Mandalay, Pandaw; the former British Irrawaddy flotilla company renovated boat, Ayeyawaddy princess) organize an overnight on board trips during the tourist season. The visitors are advised to ask for the information on the timetables of the public transportation service or the nearest Authorized Travel Agencies for your pleasant voyage. WHAT TO SEE? The most of the things to be seen in Bagan are religious edifices and monuments. In whole of Myanmar the religious monuments can be classified into two categories; Pagoda (Stupa), and Temple. Pagoda or popularly called "Pha-ya" derived from Pali word "Da-tu-ga-ba" and transformed by Singhalese into "Da-go-ba" commonly known as "Ze-dhi" derived from Pali word "Cet-ti-ya" is a solid building in order to commemorate the Lord Buddha who had attained the perfect enlightenment, and eradicated all defilements. It has a relic chamber sometimes under ground and sometimes in the vault between circular rings and bell shaped dome, where relics of Buddha or Buddhist saint or other sacred spots are to be enshrined. The pagoda type of structure is a solid brick mass, almost pyramidal in silhouette but better defined, exquisitely articulated and meaningfully detailed. Normally, it is a bell-shaped dome placed on receding terraces with a finial crowning the dome. Temple means "Gu" derived from Pali word "Gu-ha" is a hollow consturction based on a square structure and rise up with receding terraces in a shape of Pyramid. It has a one or two corridors inside, and mostly 4 sided inner walls are illustrated with mural paintings depicting the previous birth stories of Lord Buddha. The temple type is the most dominant type of religious architecture in Pagan. It is the temple that gives one the sensation of achievement in spatial concepts depicting space without light and light within space, moving one to a deeply emotional outlook or to an ultimate imagination. In the temple type of structure, there are two sub-types, one of which has a single entrance, with a main vestibule or hall and a central sanctum for the image. The other sub-type has four entrances all of them the same although in some exceptional temples there is a main entrance usually on the eastern side, with a larger vestibule than the other three entrances. Passages or corridors run around a central core on all four sides of which are vaults for images of the Buddha. The monuments in Bagan are the silent witnesses of a a glorious past which lasted from the eleventh century until the fourteenth century. In this period Bagan was the capital of the First Burmese Kingdom and one of the largest religious centres in Southeastern Asia.The construction of temples and pagodas reached its peak. Still it is hard to imagine the grandeur of Bagan in its glorious days. Only the religious monuments made of fired brick covered with plaster and decorated with stucco relief remain. The palaces and houses were made of wood and have been destroyed by the elements. Ironically the use of wood as a material for the construction of houses has led tot the preservation of the religious monuments. By logging trees for the construction of houses and palaces as well as for the heating of brick ovens the plain lost its forest. As a consequence the climate was to become exceptionally dry. These metrological circumstances favored the preservation of the religious monuments made of brick. The kings who reigned over Bagan during its golden period were: King Anawratha 1044 - 1077 AD King Sawlu 1077 - 1084 King Kyanzittha 1084 - 1113 King Alaungsithu 1113 - 1167 King Narathu 1167 - 1170 King Naratheinkha 1170 - 1174 King Narapatisithu 1174 - 1211 King Nantaungmya 1211 - 1234 King wa 1234 - 1250 King Uzana 1250 - 1255 King thihapati 1255 - 1287 Ananada Temple  "Ananda" is the word meaning the endless Wisdom of Buddha. This
magnificent temple completed in 1090, is King "Kyan-sit-tha's
masterpiece and the crowning achievement of early style of temple
architecture. The plan is that of a perfect Greek cross. There are
four huge Buddha Images in standing position, but the Buddha Images
facing south and north are original and the Buddha images facing
east and west are replacements. The original images were burnt down
by the candle lights put up by of some pilgrims some years ago. A
series of eighty reliefs depicting the Final Life of the Buddha, and
eight scenes from his birth to attained Enlightenment is notable.
The Ananda Pagoda festival held in January is a big event drawing
many pilgrims from all over the country.That-byin-nyu Temple  The meaning "That-byin-nyu" is omniscience and the further
explanation is thoroughly and widely seeing of Lord Buddha. The
temple was built by King "Alaung-sithu" in the middle of 12th
centaury with the high over 66 meters. It overtops all over other
monuments and once the access has been allowed to all visitors to
view the magnificent panorama of Bagan plains. At present the
stairways to the upper story has been closed for the preservation of
the monument. It is the only temple in which one can learn the
strange gesture of seated Buddha Image on a chair the two foots
touching the earth, and believe all wishes come true.Dhama-yan-gyi Temple  This most massive temple in Bagan was constructed by king "Na-ra-thu"
in the mid of XXII century. The decreasing six terraces and the main
structure resemble the plan of a pyramidal shape. It was the copy of
Ananda temple, and has two corridors inside constructed in a plan in
perfect Greek cross. But the interior passage has been closed by
bricks for the unknown reason. The masonry job of this temple so
remarkable that even a needle cannot penetrate between two bricks.
Besides, the complicated architectural style of this temple creates
the arguments on the number of floors and on the completion of the
building. What is more is the founder of this temple was in a bad
reputation for the killing of his father and his brother so as to
get the throne. The story told again the founder had the killed of
the persons who were responsible for the mistake of this amazing
edifice during the construction. These reasons generate so many
riddles and mysteries that lead to be known as ghost haunted temple
for some inhabitants.Sula-ma-ni Temple  "Sula-Mani "means" the jewel of crown" and at the same time it
refers the name of the pagoda in the celestial being in which the
hair of prince Sidharhta (the Gotama Buddha to be) at the time of
his renunciation was enshrined. The temple was built by king "Narhapati-sithu"
in 1183. It has one similar plan to "That-byin-nyu" temple and has
two floors, the ground floor and the first floor. As in "Dhama-Yangyi"
temple, the positioning of the bricks is remarkable. The architects
used the sandstone among the bricks to re-enforce the building. That
edifice was built in the contemporarily time of "Gawdaw-palin"
temple, and the temple is well symmetrical from all directions. The
ambulatory is decorated with the mural paintings of the XII and
XVIII century. The exterior walls are decorated in stucco and
pilaster and glazed lotus flowers of green and yellow. It was the
time of Burmese architecture attained the highest point, and the
ideal architectural was sought out after the following builders (for
example; "Hti-lo-min-lo" temple).Shwe-gu-gyi Temple  Standing on high brick plinth, situated in the eastern part of Old
Bagan Palace site. This temple was built by King "Along-sithu" in
1131 AD. The arch-pediments, pilasters, plinth and cornice are
decorated with fine stucco carving which represent Myanmar style
architecture in the early 12th centaury.Gaw-daw-palin Temple  Dating the XII century, this temple was built by king " Nara-pati-sithu"
and offering the height of 60 meter. It is one of the most gracious
and elegant temples of Bagan. Sitting on the first terrace of this
temple, admiring the Sun going down on the top of the Tant-kyi-taung
mountain above the water of River Ayeyawaddy is the most magnificent
panoramic scene. The view of the ruins of the Bagan city at the
twilight remained a good memory and un-forgettable to the tourists
during their stay in the Myanmar. It was the building badly damaged
by the earthquake of 1975, and renovated on its original style with
the help of UNESCO. This temple is said to be the most elegant
temple in Bagan by all visitors near and far.Gu-byaunk-gyi temple (Wet-kyi-inn village)  The word "Gu-byauk-gyi" meaning the great spotted temple, built in
13th century, the temple with a spire resembling the Mahabodhi
temple at Buddha-Gaya of India is noted for its' mural painting of
12th century. Most of the depictings are based on "Jatakas", the
previous birth stories of Lord Buddha, and 28 pictures of previous
Buddhas under the respective tress where each Lord Buddha attained
the final enlightenment. Some of frescos were stolen by
European-Tourists.Hti-Lo-Minlo Temple  The word "Htilominlo" literally means desired by the royal white
umbrella, and desired by the king, and the temple built about 1211
AD by king "Nan-daung-mya-min", is one of the largest temples of
Bagan. It is double storied structure rising 50 meters about the
ground was the little bit repeating architecture of famous "Sula-mani"
temple. This temple is noted for its fine plaster carving on the
arch-pediment, frieze and pilaster.Shwe-zee-gon Pagoda  The "Shwe-zee-gon" pagoda has been built under the command of king "Anaw-ya-hta"
and it has been finished by "Kyan-sit-tha", the third successor of
Bagan in 1084. King "Anaw-ya-hta" has the tooth replica and collar
bones of the Lord Buddha un-earthed from Sri-khitra, the old Pyu
capital city near modern Pyay (Prome). These sacred relics were
brought to Bagan on the back of Royal white elephant. And the king
made a wish, and the pagoda was built on the site where the royal
elephant knelt-down. It was a sandbar called in Burmese "Zee-gon",
and the pagoda was named after that word as "Shwe-zee-gon" (the
golden sandbar). It was constructed by sand stones extracted from a
query called "To-ywin-taung", 3 km to the East of Bagan. The blocks
of sandstone were carved there and passed by the hands of a huge
human chain from that query to the construction of Pagoda site. It
can be said the architecture of this Pagoda is the prototype of
later Myanmar Stupa, and the terraces are decorated with green
glazed plaques illustrating the scenes of Jataka. This pagoda is the
most famous place, the pilgrims near and far visit and appreciates
the nine wonders of the pagoda. The pagoda festival is annually held
in the mid of October or the beginning of November.Bu-phaya Pagoda  Standing on the bank of the Majestic River Ayeyawaddy, the "Bu-phaya"
is a conspicuous landmark of Ancient Capital Bagan for travelers
along the River. This pagoda with a bulbous dome resembling the "Bu"
or gourd fruit was the early pagoda type in Myanmar, and it is a
favorite spot for visitors to watch the sunset pass-over the river.Gu-byauk-gyi (Myinkaba)  The "Gu-byauk-gyi" (the great spotted cave) temple of 1113 belonging
to early Mon style architecture was created by "Raja-kumar", the
inherited son of king " Kyan-sitha " but price dis-inherited. It is
located near "Myin-Kabar" village. Possessing the early Bagan period
type temple, the eastern porch is tunnel like entrance into the
temple. The inner walls of temple are well preserved fresco of Bagan
period (1044-1287) depicting Jatakas, the previous birth stories of
Buddha. They were cleaned with chemical ingredients with the help of
UNESCO experts. One can also learn the life style, customs, and
traditions of inhabitants during Bagan period from these wall
paintings.Shwe-san-taw Pagoda  The word "Shwe-san-taw" literally means "the golden hair of the
Buddha". After the conquest of "Tha-hton", the king "Anaw-ya-hta"
made this gracious royal construct this in 1057. The dome is
super-imposed on five receding terraces on which were once applied
with glazed plaques illustrating the Jatakas. The earth-quake of
1975 made the umbrella, "Hti" in Burmese, the crowning part of
pagoda fall down on the ground. The original broken umbrella can be
seen on the ground nearby Pagoda. In former days the corner of the
terrace were adorned with Hindu god statues, and the access is
possible to climb until the highest terrace from where watch the
panorama of environs or the sunset.'
Mingalar-zedi Pagoda  "Mingalar-zedi" literally means the "Auspicious pagoda" and situated
near the Bank of "Aye-ya-waddy" River, close to the "Thiri-pyit-saya"
hotel. Built by king "Nara-thiha-pa-ti" in 1277 under the models "Shwe-zee-gon".
The pagoda testifies the supreme achievement of the Stupa
architecture decorated with glazed plaques, and of the last
religious edifice in Bagan. There was a prophecy or rumor while the
pagoda was in progress stating that "the kingdom will be ended when
the pagoda is completed". Therefore the king believing the
prediction totally stopped all construction. The 6 years later, the
king learnt the teaching of Lord Buddha "Nothing is permanent", then
the king had to continue the finishing of pagoda. Finally the
prediction showed true that the kingdom was destroyed by the
invasion of Tata-Mongol in 1287.Ma-nu-ha Temple  Situated in the "Myin-kaba" village, the temple carried its name
after the Môn king "Ma-nu-ha", who has been brought to Bagan as a
captive in 1059. Under the authorization of king "Anwa-ya-hta", the
Mon King had built this temple financing by the selling of his royal
properties. The temple shelters three big statues of Buddha as well
as the one reclining Buddha Image in the back chamber. One can learn
the attitude of the captive king under King "Anaw-ya-hta" from the
light of immense Buddha Image in a narrow chamber.Archaeological Museum  This museum run by Archaeological department is rightly next to the
"Ga-daw-palin" temple. It is probably the largest collections of
artifact from all over the country displaying more than 2000 objects
some of which are of the original pieces of Pagoda and temples. It
shelters the various statues of Buddha from different times, the
relief of Buddha and Hindu divinities made of sandstone, the
terracotta plaques, the statues and the pieces of stucco and wall
paintings, the fragments of textiles painted, the leaflets of
manuscripts. In the center of the museum, has been deposited by the
famous "Mya-zedi" inscription carved in the beginning of the XII
century written in Môn, in Burmese, in Pyu and Pali. It is also
known as the rosette stone of Myanmar and depicting the story of "Gyu-byauk-gyi"
temple. A trunk of petrified wood and some fossils are also exposed.
The several style of traditional hairdressing ways during Bagan
period (1044-1287) are of interest item. The museum is every day
open of 9 hs at 16 hs 30 close on Monday and gazette holidays.Entry fee - US 4 $. BAGAN ENVIRONS Mount Popa  The Mount Popa, the unique oasis in the semi - desert region is a
extinct volcano that is located in the Southeast of Bagan, about 97
km by the road via "Kyauk-pa-daund" and more than 50 km by the road
NyaungU-Popa. With an altitude of 1518 meters, it is the culminating
point in the central Burma. Due to the volcanic ashes, hill-sides
are fertile and various kinds of trees with flowers naturally grow
well. The name "Popa" comes from the word Sanskrit that means
"flowers". To the west foot of the big mountain a dick, a peg of
perpendicular lava of 700 meters of height stands. The summit of
this dick is occupied by pagodas and recently built religious
pavilions which can be reached by a set of stairs of which some
parts are nearly vertical. There is a pavilion at the foot of rock
formation which houses the life-sized statues of 37 "Nats" equipped
with their respective colorful costumes. The site is not known for
great historical evidence, but known as the abode of legendary Nats,
"Min-maha-giri", the lord of Great Mountain in Burmese, the oldest
of the list of 37 Nats, and "Mae-wanna" well known as an ogress who
diet with vegetables and flowers.Since Mount Popa is abundant of
medicinal herbs and plants, one believes that it becomes a
preferable area for the legendary alchemists. And then, the site
becomes once again popular like a holy place due to a religious
patronage in the years 50. That is why; Mount Popa is a place of
cult for the Burmese. The big yearly feast of the Nats takes place
there at the month Burmese month "Nadaw" (month of November and
December).Pa-khoke-ku After one hour or more of crossing along the "Aye-ya-waddy" river from Bagan, one can visit a big urban city "Pa-khoke-ku". It is an interesting day trip from Bagan passing through the plantations of cotton and of cereals crops. One can discover the life style of typical urban Burmese people who live out of agriculture. As it is located on the confluent of the "Aye-ya-waddy" river and the "Chin-twin" river, Pa-khoke-ku is also a very important commercial harbor city in that region. Because of the big monasteries known as the studying centers for the Buddhist monks, "Pa-khoke-ku" becomes a religious city. The well known religious edifice of the city is the "Thi-ho-shin" temple that shelters three statuaries of Buddha of Singhalese origin dating back to the king "Alaung-sie-thu" according to the legend. As for other points of interest, one can also visit the big local market, the small cottage industries of textile which manufacture the tablecloths and the blankets made of cotton, traditional medicine producing centers, traditional cigar makings and making of incense-sticks. Salay  "Sale" is a small city situated to 46 km due south of Bagan,
up-river "Aye-ya-waddy". There are about forty religious edifices
dating back to XIII century within the 7 km squares. It can be
reached from Bagan by boat and by road that parallel to "Aye-ya-waddy"
by passing small villages and another small city named "Chauk" where
the crude-oil is extracted. According to the legend, it was a small
village from where a king of Bagan has welcomed the text of Buddhist
cannons, and conveyed it until Bagan. In the XIX century, 'Sale" was
known for the poet named "U-pon-nya". Under the reign of the last
Burmese kings and at the time of colonial period, a few beautiful
monasteries decorated with sculptures made of teak-wood have been
constructed. During the British time, "Sale" became commercial and
administrative city and some buildings of colonial style remain
until today. The monuments of the site are less decorated and less
interesting compare with to those of Bagan but its environment is
more living.As most interesting site, one can visit a monastery made of teak-wood dating back to the 1882 named "Yoke-soan-kyaung", richly sculpted monastery. It has been offered by a rich tradesman. It measures 50 meters of length on 25 m width composed of 150 teak pillars offered by king "Thi-baw", the last king of Myanmar Kingdom. It presents a classic plan with 7 compartments which are accessible by stairs. It has a verandah whose periphery is decorated of sculptured panels in wood illustrating the Jatakas, the scenes of the court of this time and some legends of the "Nats". Some represent vices (the drunkenness, debauchery) and the virtues. The ceiling of the compartments is decorated of sculpted caissons. After the renovation in 1994, the monastery has been transformed into a museum. Objects found in the site dating back from the prehistoric period to the XIX century exposed in the compartments; antique objects in lacquer, relief made of wood, heads of Buddha, statuary of Buddha, manuscripts on palm leaves or on folded papers. In the opposite site, among the monasteries and the pagodas is a temple that shelters a statue of Buddha of 3 m high named "Man-phaya". According to record in the precinct of pagoda, the statue was brought there by the waves of the "Aye-ya-waddy" river. It is hollow and light because the statue was made of cloth, lacquer and sawdust. To verify it, a passage is preserved in the Buddha's back. There is another monastery named "Thar-thana-yaung-chi" that preserves a case of the end of XIX century well decorated of a continuation of the very small colorful pictures. The superior monk gives courses of meditation. To the North of the site, there are small pagodas and temples in the style of Bagan. The temple of " Phaya-thone-su" decorated of the stucco and the pagoda of "Shin-bin-sa.kyo" are the venerable objects for the visitors. Pakhan There is two "Pha-khan"; "Pha-khan-Gyi"(Big Pha-khan) and "Pha-khan-Ngae" (small Phan Khan). "Pha-khan-gyi" is located about 30 km due north of " Pa-khoke-ku ". It was once a walled garrison city constructed to a strategic place against the Mongol invasions after the fall of Bagan, at the beginning of XIV century. It also became an important administrative city of the region in the XIX century. The remains of the defensive walls and the pagodas in a dilapidate situation remain as the traces of the important city in the past. The most famous pagoda named " Sie-thu-shin " houses a statuette of Buddha covered with gold leaves and studded with precious stones. According to the legend, the king of Bagan "Along-sithu" built the sanctuary to accommodate this statuette made of very fragrant wood (" Tha-rat-khan" in Burmese) offered by the king of celestial beings. There is also a monastery made of teak wood dated back to XIX century which plan reminds the one of "Bar-ga-yar" of Ava. The stage is decorated of bas-reliefs that represent the Jatakas. An archaeological museum stores the objects found in the site of "Pha-khan". Close to "Pha-khan-gyi", on an island to the confluent of The Aye-ya-waddy and the "Chin-twin" is a small village called "Pha-khan-ngae". This village is known as the sanctuary of a very famous "Nat of drinks"; "U-min-kyaw". "U-min-kyaw" lived in the XVI century and he was born in " Pha-khan-gyi". He is adopted by the governor of "Pha-khan-gyi" and to his death, U-min-kyaw assassinated his successor and became the chief. He was very fond of drinking and gambling of cock-fights. He died with the suffocation by his vomits and die to become a "Nat". This Nat is the protector of the gamblers and the players of lottery. His abode was that small village "Pha-khan-ngae" and a big annual festival in his honor is celebrated in March. It lasts two weeks and participated by so many pilgrims of the whole Burma. |
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Just next to the foot of "Shwe-san-taw" pagoda is a long building
made of brick that shelters a statue of lying Buddha of 18 meters
dating back to XI century. The head of the statue directs towards
the south that represents the Buddha's resting. For the
representation to entering " Nivana", the head pointed toward the
North.
